Help a soon to be breeder!!!!

been noticing the ppl use the rack sysems for their BPs.. other that space saving what other advantages are there to racks versus tank? and how is it that the snakes dont get out of the rack systems.. my wife is terrified of my current bp and im trying to talk her into letting me begin breeding.. so you guys, i need all the helpful info i can get.. shes already agreed to let me get a pastel female.. but under certatin housing conditions..

I think the racks are safer in regards to BPs getting out versus tanks. Ball Pythons are very strong and can lift a lid even with weights on top (unless very heavy). I've yet to hear of a bp busting through the above shelf in a rack (think Incredible Hulk style ).

Here are a couple of my racks. The BPs can not get out, but you have to remember to close the drawers. If they do get out, more than likely they will be found on the shelf hanging out by the heat strip.

There are a lot of advantages to using racks.

1) Humidity - Tubs hold humidity far better than tanks. Since purchasing my racks, I have never had a snake with a bad shed.

2) Security - Because racks are typically enclosed on all sides except the front of the tub, snakes like ball pythons feel more secure. For some, this actually eliminates the need for hides, but some prefer to keep hides in the tub for extra security for those picky eaters.

3) Space Saving - I cannot tell you how wonderful it is. In the same footprint as you would house 1 snake, you can house a dozen (depending on how high your racks are).

4) Money Saving - When you take into consideration all of the things you need for tanks (Heating elements, hides, thermometers, etc) it can get pretty expensive to set up a tank for a full grown adult. With racks, the heat is built in and you only need one thermostat to run it. (I actually run 3 racks on one thermostat and it does fine). My housing cost, per snake, is less than $100. My 32qt racks hold 4 adult snakes. They cost $300, so that's about $75 per snake. My thermostats cost me $100 each, but I run 3 racks on one of them, so I heat 11 snakes on one thermostat, (so that's about $10-ish per snake). So now we are up to $85. Since my snakes are secure in their tubs, I don't use hides, so no extra expense there.

Now, going on Petsmart's website, I can see a 20g tank is about $75. A heating pad is roughly around $15 (or more, depending on size). Now we are up to $90. Now you need a rheostat or thermostat to run the heating pad, and that runs you around $20, so now we are at $110. See where I'm going. Racks save you soooooooo much money. I use Reptile Basics racks (www.reptilebasics.com) and I love them. They are affordable and he has excellent customer service!

Don, those are ARS racks, right? If so, those are what I plan to buy in a few years (I have to save up! Those are expensive!) How do you like them?

Yup, ARS racks and I need to buy another set before too long. The bottom baby rack is not ARS but it is similar. I bought it used.

I love the ARS racks. I had gone through several different kinds of PVC racks and never had much luck attempting to breed in them. I've had very good success with the ARS racks and wish I had started with them rather than going through a bunch of other racks first. It would have saved a lot of money.

I can't wait to get one. How much did those to cost with shipping (if you don't mind me asking), and how do they come to you? (meaning do you have to put them together?) The last time I looked, they were under 3k, but that was without shipping.

Depends upon the options. I upgraded the heating and bought extra tubs. So, mine were right around $3k with shipping.

They are stacked one level on top of the other. When shipped, they come on a pallet. You can order by the level, but with shipping, which is around $300 it would add up to order a level or two at a time.

I'd just rather wait and buy a full rack. Thanks for the info. Hopefully in the next couple of years, I can upgrade my snakes to one of these racks.

ClarkeReptiles wrote:

There are a lot of advantages to using racks.


4) Money Saving - When you take into consideration all of the things you need for tanks (Heating elements, hides, thermometers, etc) it can get pretty expensive to set up a tank for a full grown adult. With racks, the heat is built in and you only need one thermostat to run it. (I actually run 3 racks on one thermostat and it does fine). My housing cost, per snake, is less than $100. My 32qt racks hold 4 adult snakes. They cost $300, so that's about $75 per snake. My thermostats cost me $100 each, but I run 3 racks on one of them, so I heat 11 snakes on one thermostat, (so that's about $10-ish per snake). So now we are up to $85. Since my snakes are secure in their tubs, I don't use hides, so no extra expense there.

How the heck do you do that? Are all the heat tapes plugged into an extension cord then plugged into the thermostat? Temps are consistent in all the tubs? Does it require a special thermostat?

Shanna
(curious & still learning newbie)

The wiring on the rack (PVC) is typically from one strip that is wound through out the rack in an S pattern. It is plugged into a thermostat and the probe from that thermostat is taped (with aluminum heat tape) to the flexwatt. Temperatures are fairly consistent throughout the rack, but there is usually some variance in the flexwatt.

In larger rack systems like the ones in my picture, each level has a heat strip that plugs into a power strip. The power strip is plugged into a thermostat, which has the probe placed as in a PVC rack.

If you will notice, there are two thermostats on my racks. One is a back up and one is a primary. I believe in safety. I would also recommend to others to use a back up thermostat and good quality power strips, if you use them. Those are typically the points of failure and fires in reptile rooms.

Don wrote:

The wiring on the rack (PVC) is typically from one strip that is wound through out the rack in an S pattern. It is plugged into a thermostat and the probe from that thermostat is taped (with aluminum heat tape) to the flexwatt. Temperatures are fairly consistent throughout the rack, but there is usually some variance in the flexwatt.

In larger rack systems like the ones in my picture, each level has a heat strip that plugs into a power strip. The power strip is plugged into a thermostat, which has the probe placed as in a PVC rack.

If you will notice, there are two thermostats on my racks. One is a back up and one is a primary. I believe in safety. I would also recommend to others to use a back up thermostat and good quality power strips, if you use them. Those are typically the points of failure and fires in reptile rooms.

Your regular thermostat plugs into the backup thermostat? & both thermostats have probes tape on the heat tape?

We purchase our racks from Rich Baker @ Chesapeake Bay Ball Pythons. He also offers dividers to separate teh 32qt in half to have even more space for BPs that aren't quite ready for a 32qt tub alone. And the has a piece that he makes to hold the probe in place as opposed to sticking it into a tub.

http://www.cbballpythons.com/

the site is outdated but his contact information is on there and he can give you some pricing on rack systems. he can ship them or you can pick them up. he is off the eastern shore in maryland.

derpinah wrote:

Don wrote:

The wiring on the rack (PVC) is typically from one strip that is wound through out the rack in an S pattern. It is plugged into a thermostat and the probe from that thermostat is taped (with aluminum heat tape) to the flexwatt. Temperatures are fairly consistent throughout the rack, but there is usually some variance in the flexwatt.

In larger rack systems like the ones in my picture, each level has a heat strip that plugs into a power strip. The power strip is plugged into a thermostat, which has the probe placed as in a PVC rack.

If you will notice, there are two thermostats on my racks. One is a back up and one is a primary. I believe in safety. I would also recommend to others to use a back up thermostat and good quality power strips, if you use them. Those are typically the points of failure and fires in reptile rooms.

Your regular thermostat plugs into the backup thermostat? & both thermostats have probes tape on the heat tape?

yes, that is the way my racks are set up. One goes out, the other controls the temp.

Don wrote:

yes, that is the way my racks are set up. One goes out, the other controls the temp.

That's pretty clever, thanks for the info.

I just converted to racks after years of tanks then rubber made with lids. I will never go back. I got vision racks so I could switch out tubs to the size I need at that time. I think one of the biggest advantages is the simplest. Wheels.. Makes cleaning a breeze.

stick with steve, don, and nick, they'll give you the right info. not to say the others wont but from what i gathered, they seem pretty intelligent haha

ok!!!!! ive already gotten the green light for my pastel female . she is still not convinced with a rack system.. but i did get a green light to get the pastel and a small rack system.. does anybody sell make or know who makes a single or dual bin 16qt rack system????

I do have a few questions though. how does the heat tape work? what is the best beginner set up for a rack? are there any must have items?

like im so happy i dont know what to ask or where im going form here.. future breeder on the way yall!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! whoo hooo

Bobbykaizer wrote:

stick with steve, don, and nick, they'll give you the right info. not to say the others wont but from what i gathered, they seem pretty intelligent haha

i know who don is but who are steve and nick?

Nick is Focal and owner of the site. Steve is smd58.

One thing you must have item is a good thermostat. I'd look at ReptileBasics.com for a rack system and thermostat. If you get a ball python, a 16 qt will not last long. If I were you, I'd look at a 32 quart with a divider. Even that will be too small for an adult female ball python. You will eventually need to get a 41 qt rack.

Steve is "smd58" and Nick is "Focal"

well right now i have a normal male( not 100% sure its male) and im looking to get my female pastel.. so a smaller rack system will work for now.. my wife says the pastel is the only one going in the rack for now until she gets comfortable.. i know ill have to upgrade later but i gotta make sure she ok with it first..

but i got the green light to start small.. thats a plus.. and i gotta start somewhere..lol

thats the spirit!

my initial thought was a small basic rack system.. with 1 or two 32 quart tubs with dividers for the smaller bps.. i am only approved by my warden for the pastel right now so one tub should be fine untill she gets breed ready size right? matter of fact what is the bas weight that a female should be bred?

people have bred them down to 1300 grams and possibly smaller, however this isnt recommended size. i would wait till at least 1500 or better yet 1700. when you breed them small like that, they loose alot of wait and it can be dangerous. you mainly want to make sure that she has the girth to hold a ball python egg inside of her hope that helps!

Bigger is better, don't rush it. It's sad to loss a animal because of early breeding.

ok so right now im looking at about 2-3yrs before she is breed ready? what is weight for males?

malres can breed as low as 300 grams, basically when they start producing sperm plugs. but around 500-700 grams (and up) is ideal..